For master chef Jacques Pépin—who celebrates his 80th birthday later this year—the classic French stew Chicken Jardinière recalls fond memories of his mother’s home cooking. “It’s a dish I’ve loved for as far as I can remember,” Pépin says. His mother’s approach to the dish was slightly different. She’d use chicken gizzards to boost flavor, rather than pancetta, which Pépin […]
My Boys: What Happens When a Mother Who Has Made Food the Center of Her Life Can’t Nourish Her Own Children?
If you’ve paid any attention to the late-night talk show barbs and the wry-witted, pun-centric buzz online, you’ll know that Thanksgiving and Hanukkah fall on the same date this year. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime cyclical snafu, one that many are enjoying (like Asher Weintraub, 9-year-old inventor of the Menurkey) while many roll their eyes. The switch for me has meant that […]
Three Thanksgivings ago, my wife took a special guest along for our eight-hour drive to her mother’s house in Texas: a 12-pound turkey, soaking in a cooler full of cold cider brine. This Thanksgiving, we’re headed to the beach with friends, again with a bathing turkey in tow, which will officially make our Rolling Brine Roadshow a tradition. Yes, we […]
Tomorrow is October 1, the start of my most favorite month. It’s my birthday month, and I celebrate all month long. With my birthday in sight, I’ve got presents on my mind. But as I reflect on what gifts I’d like this year, I realize I really don’t need anything. Instead, I’m hoping friends and family who want to give […]
Each year, the morning after our Passover Seder, most of us would still be too full to even consider breakfast. Still, my grandfather always made matzo brei (rhymes with “fry”), a classic Ashkenazic dish. Since we can’t eat leavened bread or fermented grain products during Passover, toast and cereal were off the table for breakfast. But this cross between a […]